Keep your eyes peeled. Starting this week there will be an ongoing 7 part series on "The Essentials". An examination of the the basics of style for the 'everyman'.

That will be in addition to my weekly postings on the industy and history (which comes out each and every friday)

ryan

Much love.

12.11.2010

Men's Bags. Wanna Fight About it?

Jack Spade $275-320
The messenger bag was originally designed to help bike couriers carry their loads all over the city safely. Because of the constant beating the packages took and the exposure to all types of weather, the bags were designed to endure as much punishment as possible. The first bags were made in New York, out of sail materials, since then many new types of materials have been used. The three most common in use now are waxed canvas, leather and ballistic grade Kevlar. The materials like the bags themselves should be both utilitarian and durable.
     The good news is that there are still a handful of companies that are owned and operated by former bike couriers. Most of the companies hover around bike meccas, and the companies remain based in courier havens like Toronto, New York and San Francisco. Who better to design and produce high quality and durable bags? After all they have seen and experienced first hand the limitations and flaws in other companies bag designs. A lot of the focus of the "bike" bags is on weatherproofing, ensuring they will last, and solidifying the comfort and reliability of the strap. The quality and durability of these professional grade "bike" messenger bags make them the standard by which every other bag is measured. 
Timbuk2 Commuter 2.0 $75-140
     The three most reliable and talked about "bike" bag producers are PAC designs, Manhattan Portage and Chrome Bags. Chrome has built quality messenger bags since 1994, and still proudly produce all of their bags in the United States. They were the originator of the seatbelt strap, that has a buckle for quick release. It is also one of the strongest strap designs on the market, and prides itself on its lightweight design. You should be looking for a strap that has multiple layers that are interwoven. It is a crucial element to prevent fraying or ripping to a nicked strap. One of the elements i always look for in a quality bag of any kind: a strong and reliable strap.
Manhattan Portage $120

Jack Spade Twill Field Bag $220-300
The recent movement of the messenger bag out of the courier class and into the mainstream of fashion is not a huge surprise, the bags offer an alternative to the stodgy briefcase or the immature backpack.It gives an alternative to busy men, who want the mixture of mobility and youthful elan. It also gives them the durability and utility that make them staples for couriers. With the messenger bags movement into popular fashion, the bags have undergone huge changes. There have been more bold print designs and exposed branding. Many of the 'fashion' bags are intended more for their form than their function. And have brought new fabrics to the table. A warning to the readers out there- always stay away from untreated canvas, plain cotton or the harder leather shells. After all you want to look for fabrics that have the penchant for durability; waxed canvas, Kevlar, even corduroy are perfect due to their woven construction and water-repellent functionality.
     Fashion companies know this and have to weigh the cost of the materials and construction cost against the sales price and profit margin, and very few fashion companies make bags that are of a superior quality to that of the "bike" bags for an affordable price- however, some do.
     There are five essentials to choosing the ideal bag:
Chrome $80-140

1. Finish
You want to make sure you look over the bag carefully. You want to look for exposed and loose threads or poorly finished seams. Loose strings and bad seams will unravel over time, especially when its under pressure of weight, eventually causing problems with the integrity of the bag. So its better to nip this issue in the bud. If the major seams are double or triple stitched all the better. Its these small details that ensure the bags durability. A bag can be made of the most luxe materials available, but if its poorly constructed or poorly finished it will self-destruct. While most of the expensive bags lead the pack with the smoothest and most stylish finish, it is not always so. Here are some bags with great finish and consistent attention to detail:

Burberry $700-750

PAC Designs $160

2. Materials
The construction materials are a huge part of the bags cost, from luxe leather to cheap canvas. The focus is on weatherproof materials. I always look at the bag's material and think about it being in a rain storm. Will it repel the water and keep my work papers dry? If the answer is no, then what purpose does the bag really perform?
weather-proof liner of the Jack Spade bag
    I also look at the liner, I always carry water bottle, lunches, etc, so I look for a waterproof interior and segregated segments inside the bag. This is a hugely overlooked construction detail, and shows which designers have an eye for functionality as well as looks. I always find myself favoring diaper bags, they are built to go anywhere and handle anything.

3. Utility/Size
Most designers in the messenger bag ilk, build their bags in three standard sizes: medium, large, and ultra/professional. For fashion sake, no one needs the largest size, it is too big to be functional for anyone but professional bike couriers. The large at a standard 17" and a capacity of between 15-21 gallons, is large enough for anything most people will carry on an average day. You should check to see the compartments within the bag. They should offer an internal structure, it will help you keep yourself organized and ready for anything.
                                                   

                                                    
                                    4. Strap/Durability

Gucci Messenger $1310
The bags in this article have been looked at, experimented with and talked to the designers about. All of them have the cross weave strap that is preferred by discerning bag connoisseurs. These straps are built to last, no matter what you put them through.  Enough said.


5. Versatility+Design
After all, you are looking for a bag that is fashionable and can go anywhere. Since exploding on the scene, messenger bags are made by everyone. Dior, Burberry, Gucci, everyone. You want to find a bag that suits you. Look for a variety of colours, prints and patterns. Look for something that looks good, projects your own personal style, and is versatile in your wardrobe. This is the category I can help you with the least. I cannot tell you what looks good on you, or makes you feel great. So you my friends, are on your own.

Kenneth Cole Reaction $75


However, I have given you the skills to choose wisely and have set out to include examples at different price points that are a perfect marriage of fashion and function. Good hunting, and Happy Holidays.





Company Info
Chrome Bags: http://www.chromebags.com/
1086 Folsom Street,
San Francisco, CA 94103

PAC Designs: http://www.pacdesigns.com/
P.O. Box 127
Mindemoya, Ontario, P0P 1S0
Canada
Toll free: 1 866 722 2247 ( 866 PAC BAGS)
fax: (705) 377 6160 or (705) 368 0006

Manhattan Portage: http://www.manhattanportage.com/
Portage Worldwide Inc.
301 West Broadway
New York, NY 10013
212 226 4557 (11 a.m.-7 p.m.)
fax: 212 226 1341

Jack Spade
454 Broome Street
New York, NY 10013
http://www.jackspade.com/
toll-free telephone at (877) 917-5225. Monday through Friday (excluding holidays), 8:30am to 5pm EST.

Gucci
130 Bloor Street West, Suite 102
M5S 1N5
Toronto, Ontario
tel 1 416 963 5127
or toll free 1 877 482 2499

Burberry
Customer Service Department
444 Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10022
Customer Service 800 284 8480

Timbuk2
583 Shotwell Street
San Francisco, CA 94110 USA
Toll free (within the USA) at 1 800 865 2513.
Outside of the US please call 415 252 4300
http://www.timbuk2.com/


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