In fashion, there are very few self evident "truths". They are those trends that fashion houses, retailers and media blindly follow. I wish to examine and illuminate one such truth. The fact is, that fashion does reflect the times it emerges from*1. Designs take on certain characteristics of the era they were born out of. And as trends reoccur, as they so often do, some eventually become ingrained in the psyche of the masses. They become a "truth", a concept that is so deeply ingrained in society that it is no longer questioned. A belief that is followed like the morals of Aesop's fables, rather than a newly formed idea which can be questioned and subverted. I wish to give the history and attempt to replace the mislaid notion that in tough recessionary economic times fashion must move towards longer dress hemlines and use brighter colours.
In the past couple of decades the media has in large part focused on the longer hems as an oracle predicting what lies ahead. Claiming that the design teams and industry luminaries use their insider knowledge to predict the economy and to highlight their own cleverness, the press clearly misses the larger issue. The history of the trend is the actual story and what makes it truly magical. And the history is the real reason why people continue to follow the trend of longer hemlines that seems to come from time immemorial, whether they know it or not. But its far more recent than that. And while I am sure the history is interesting enough and will keep you reading, I also wish to state why i cannot accept it as one of fashions unbreakable rules any longer. Until we are forced to wear barrel's for lack of clothing, I for one will continue to wear, what I wear day in and day out- recession or not. -Let us begin.
History
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| Typical Edwardian Dresses |
Before the turn of the 18th Century, the length of a woman's dress was set by standards of morality. Moving into the 1900's long flowing dresses were not only a way to express their wealth- but also their moral standing. To be able to see ankle, let alone a flash of shin or knee was considered scandalous. As the new century dawned and moved forward, the empowerment of women and the force pressure on them to keep their "morals" about them loosened slightly. Hemlines crept up and up, eventually hitting the formally pornographic knee region. This change was due partly by women becoming more autonomous and their movement into the work force, women with shorter skirts became not only fashionable, but also more practically dressed. "By 1910, 7,500,000 women worked outside the home. Social and political unions for women were formed, including the International Ladies' Garment Worker's Union (1911) and the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America (1914). The suffragette movement continue to grow, particularly in Great Britain and the United States"**. As material became harder to come by throughout the stock market crash and the resultant Depression, hemlines became shorter out of necessity. Hemlines continually soared throughout the Jazz Age, as did short bob hair styles and other functional necessities.
After the 1900's along came an entirely different type of economic struggle to that of the Great Depression. As Europe was unilaterally involved in the First and Second World Wars, things could no longer proceed the way they always had. Huge concessions had to be made in nearly every facet of life. The Europeans faced massive military spending, a war right in their front yards limited what could grow, produce and even where they could go. Obviously any and all limitations and quota's on what they could have was the least of their worries.
Eventually the Americans could no longer wait on the sidelines of the war. After the sinking of the Lusitania that was the catalyst for entry into the First World War and the bombing of Pearl Harbour during the Second World War it was seen as a necessity for the Americans to enter the European and Pacific theatres of war. and the United States were forced to adopt policies similar to those of their European counterparts that severely limited access to products like nylons, cottons and steel. For the Americans, just like with the Europeans losing was not an option. And not involving themselves was no longer palatable for the majority of America's citizens.
The steel that was used in manufacturing of razors and other household goods was very quickly reverted away to weapons factories to be used to make the munitions and planes that were desperately needed to win the war effort. Also, the nylon that was used in stocking and leggings became impossible to obtain overnight. The governments of all the Allied powers immediately took over or pressured existing owners to convert their production sites into parachute or munitions factories.
The problem then became for those dressing the population, what can we do for women's clothing if we no longer have nylon stockings, and the women have declining access to razors? The simplest and most utilitarian solution was to add a few inches to the hemlines. After all, women could still be dressed beautifully with minimal make-up and a stunning dress. Some designer's flourished in between the First and Second World Wars, including the influential Paul Poiret.
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| Paul Poiret's fashion style post WWI |
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| Paul Poiret |
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| rosie the riveter |
Besides, being involved in such a large scale war basically made fashion as a beauty industry a moot point between (1914-1919 and 1939-1945). Instead of creating whimsical and beautiful clothes a common and patriotic interest emerged. The need to win the war, became the predominant focus of every man, woman and child. With the unnerving state of the world at the time, everyone banded together and decided to fight for the "common good" and to do whatever possible to help the war effort, either in the military or at home. "Women's attempts to contribute to the war effort by filling men's jobs were initially rebuffed, but after the United States entered the war, women began to take on munitions and clerical jobs, becoming more economically independent in the process"**. All of the energy of both the Allies and Axis powers were put into the raging war that was tearing up the town and cities of Western Europe.
Most of the industry that was creating clothes, from the designers to the itinerant tailors and seamstresses prior to the war were now focused and organized to make the uniforms for the soldiers heading out for battle. The factory workers and garment workers were put to work, given regular hours and made huge strides in clothing the entire armed forces. Every single person at home became a support staff for the soldiers going to war. The garment workers were quickly adopted into the newly formed unions, and given regular work. The Amalgamated Clothing Worker's Union were soon not only put to work clothing the soldiers, but creating solutions at home as well. As new needs arose, it was the garment workers who would develop and implement solutions. They used their skills, and helped in whatever way possible. Although what they created may not be gorgeous gown and the haute couture of today's standards, what they made with their hands, blood, sweat and tears was essential. And it was functional, strong and reliable. Which was just what was needed and expected for the times.
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| Women's fashion milirary gear |
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| Not your usual Army/Navy surplus |
In fact the designs that were born out of the war years still live on as strong as ever on the runway. The utilitarian and durable nature of the clothes that came out of the first and second World War was not to be surpassed and that made them an instant success with those coming back from the war. I love all of the military inspired lines that have come out recently. Especially Burberry's return to a more formalized Trench coat. The bomber jacket, trench coat, epaulet's, safari vests and cargo pants are still permanent fixtures in closets and collection 60+ years later. And that's not even going into the work on acrylic materials that was initially done during the war to find cheaper and more durable, comfortable clothes...that would later be a large part of fashion to come in the form of leisure suits*2. Shudder.
It is due to the amazing history of this trend and all that i have learned that I think it is disrespectful and debasing to continue the pattern of bad economy, longer dress. It symbolizes one of the largest struggles that Europe and the Western powers have faced, a struggle for survival and overcoming some of the worst atrocities that have been seen on earth. I think that as a global culture we should change our perspective, and discontinue this "truth". We should celebrate that we are no longer in the same situation. And be blessed that we don't have to make the same difficult and life changing sacrifices that our parents and grandparents have had to make. After all, it was the War that made many people believe it would happen...."never again". Let us (please) keep it that way.
*1 Remember the Eighties ?
*2 Remember the Seventies ?
**Ann Beth Presley, "Fifty Years of Change: Societal Attitude and Women's Fashions, 1900-1950
***And a huge thank you to Seana Heighton and Wiki for the additional help. Much love.
+ Please stay tuned...next week for. "The Kate Middleton Effect" 
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