You Aren't Even Safe When You're Dead- Hell's Angel's sue Alexander McQueen.

     The fashion career path of Alexander McQueen has followed a varied and often erratic path from stable and staid working class beginnings to fashion icon super-stardom. His personal struggles with himself, depression and drug addiction are obvious in his design decisions. His reliance in the late part of his career on the bad boy-meets-working class image is born out of these struggles. And while he was taken away subtly and clearly too early from his craft, the harsh bad boy image is his remaining legacy. But no one, not even the icon himself could have predicted what was going to occur after his death.




Alexander McQueen (1969-2010)



     When most people hear of the Hells Angel's Motorcycle Club (HAMC) it is attached to an article highlighting the outlaw motorcycle club's violent and illegal activities. Apparently there is a side to the Hell's Angel's that hasn't been exposed to the public very often, if at all. The often self-isolating and hidden nature of the bikers and their crew goes against their being public in any way. Yet, the HAMC has decided to pursue their legal interests in copyrighted material that they hold. They have filed a lawsuit for copyright infringement against the late Alexander McQueen and retailers Zappo's and Sak's. The Angel's claim that they have held and used the Death Head logo as part of their uniform since the 1940's and that they wish to have all the imitations taken off the market. It seems very surreal and unnerving seeing the HAMC lawyers sitting at the plaintiff seats in a court of law.

      But the larger picture is the lawsuit's effect on the fashion industry. If you take away the ability of the fashion industry to re-configure and reinterpret the reality it sees around it, are you not imposing a limit on the most creative minds within the fashion industry?



McQueen's "Hells Angel" Ring

 McQueen's career revolved around the idea of reconstituting the harsh hirstute and often surreal reality that he observed surrounding himself. He focused largely in his men's collections on his interpretation of the "tough guy" image. Beautifully reimagining the ugly and harsh images of death and violence and splicing them seamlessly into his haute couture collections. Attempting to render them palatable to the mainstream consumer. Creating an edgier and grittier side to his collections made him stand out as a true fashion visionary. By bringing the images associated with death and destruction, especially the winged skull to the forefront Alexander McQueen pushed the boundaries of what is beautiful and the identity of masculinity. He wasn't using the well tailored shirt and suits to make his point, but was creating an alternative style for those males who do not follow the suit and tie parade down Bay St. or Wall St.
    
   And it must be said that most of McQueen's style and fashion iconography was born out of his struggles and his overarching lifestyle. He had the guts and panache to follow through on his visionary fashion sense and the creative and luminary designs, consistently putting out solid and interesting collections on the world's runways and red carpets. As seen below, the iconography of the outlaw bikers can be seen compared to the "knockoff merchandise". But what of it? is it illegal for artists to interpret their surroundings? And what after all was McQueen, but a visionary artist, who just happened to work in the medium of cloth and stitches?


      After all the reclamation of masculine images in fashion is definitely nothing new. The classic Trench coat was born out of the theatre of war. Being brought home by British and American troops after World War One, the Trench became an instant utilitarian staple for men. Now the Trench is a closet essential for any one living in cold and wet clime's. There has also been the trend of bomber jackets fazing in and out of style over the past 50+ years. Originally brought home from the pilots and crews from World War Two, they too have become a classic in the essential American wardrobe. Would the Governments and Military of either country sue for the rights to the clothing? It would be irresponsible and unrealistic. And while McQueen didn't create the hardened image of masculinity, he did perfect the balance and enabled men to look both 'tough' and beautifully dressed. And gave women a chance to explore the darker side of life through really interesting and creative accessories.



Questionable Merchandise?



     McQueen has faced many difficulties throughout his life and has struggled against and beat incredible odds to transcend to a spot as a truly established visionary and artist in the fashion industry. But to be named in a post-mortem lawsuit by an organization who's only design is to put people in their graves, is a truly tragic ending.

  I hope that his legacy can overcome the odds, and that the courts uphold the freedom of artistic expression within the industry.